Universal Genève Polerouter Jet
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Universal Genève Polerouter Jet

Why We Love It

Lets be honest - sometimes dress watches can feel a little bit... underwhelming. 

There are plenty of time only watches out there that work just fine, slipping under the cuff of a dinner jacket and making no real fuss whatsoever. But for many watch collectors, even a simple time only dress watch should have something else up its sleeve (wink wink.) 

The solution? Polerouters.

While there have been many variations of Polerouters, they just never seem to get old. They are the epitome of a simple, function-forward design language that makes them elegant without being fussy and timeless without feeling dated. 

The Universal Genève Polerouter 'Jet' is hits strikes that balance of elegant . Its classic round case and sharp faceted lugs are the perfect backdrop for the clean satin silver dial. The hour makers and stick indicies are punctuated by richly patinated, yet subtle tritium plots. The real story, however, is that beneath the dial of this unassuming piece, is a remarkably thin yet beautifully finished micro-rotor UG movement. 

For many vintage enthusiasts, the most iconic watches and notable designers have, regrettably, reach a barrier to entry that is simply insurmountable. Mercifully however, there are a few models that remain thankfully grounded in their pricing. 

If watching making prowess is your thing, UG is the place to go. If design heritage and iconography is what you seek, then Gerald Genta is your man.

The Story

Most of us, even the most diehard collectors, know only one watch designer by name: Gerald Genta.

The man behind the AP Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the IWC Ingenieur, Genta changed the watch industry with his luxury stainless steel sports watches with sharp 70s lines and his characteristic integrated bracelet design.  But before he could pioneer haute horology, he had cut his teeth on a more approachable timepiece; the Universal Genève Polerouter.

The Polerouter was Genta's first watch design brought to market, penned by the young Swiss designer in his early 20s. The watch was a sales success and propelled Genta’s career forward (allowing for the greats such as the Royal Oak and the Nautilus.) The first Polerouter was released in 1954 (and originally called the POLARouter) to celebrate and promote Scandinavian Airlines’ Royal Viking polar flights between New York City, Los Angeles and Europe. The flights forged a new route over the North Pole, reducing flight times between the two continents. Flying over the North Pole presented a unique set of challenges for a watch, and the Polerouter was designed to be highly resistant to magnetic fields (in addition to the usual shock and water resistance) so as to maintain accuracy during the trip.

Details

SKU: AS03305

Stainless steel case is approximately 34mm (excluding the crown). Universal Genève Cal. 215-97. Circa 1950s

Overall Condition: The case is in excellent condition overall showing light wear consistent with age and use. Luminous satin silver dial is in great condition with engraved hour markers and indicies, even patination, and light signs of wear. Signed crown.

Includes grey leather strap with steel pin buckle..

More pieces you may enjoy

Rolex Datejust Two Tone
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Universal Geneve Polerouter Gold Cap
$ 2,975.00
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Rolex Datejust Two-Tone 'Buckley Dial'
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We back each Analog/Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

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