IWC Calibre 89 Dress Watch
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IWC Calibre 89 Dress Watch

IWC's Calibre 89 stands out as one of the most important calibers to emerge from the Post War years. It stands firmly at the cornerstone of IWC's in-house workmanship, a superlative creation, as accurate and reliable as it is beautiful. 

The Calibre 89 began its life inside the mind of movement designer Albert Pellaton. Pellaton cut his teeth at Vacheron Constantin, but went to Schaffhausen as IWC's Technical Director in 1944. For his first major project, Pellaton designed the Calibre 89, which would signify a renewal of production for the war-torn watch industry in post-war Europe.

Pellaton built the Caliber 89 on the skeleton of the Calibre 83, which had been IWC's workhorse movement since the early 1930s. The Caliber 89, in turn, owes its existence to the British Ministry of Defense, who set forth a new standard of specifications for military-grade timepieces. This standard, dubbed 6B/346, required a chronometer-grade, anti-magnetic movement. IWC (and Jaeger-LeCoultre, who also received the contract) met the antimagnetic properties by covering the movement with a soft iron cage. Though not the most complex movement in terms of construction, the Caliber 89 nevertheless combined state-of-the-art (for then) technology--such as double barrels and a newly-patented drive train for the sweeping seconds hand--with a plain, unadorned appearance that spoke to the movement's sturdiness and reliability. 

While the Calibre 89 is most renowned for its use in the Mark XI pilot's watch, it made its way into a wide array of civilian-grade timekeepers, many of which sported the same spartan design language as their military brethren. Rather than redesign a movement for the new era of consumer-grade watches, IWC continued production of the Calibre 89 and fitted it into a range of simple, time-only watches for the modern man. From precious metal-cased dress watches to more utilitarian steel models, the mil-spec Calibre 89 took on a new life on wrists all across the world.  

This particular example, confirmed to be a Reference 521 by our colleagues in Schaffhausen, is housed in a lovely 37mm 18k rose gold case with claw lugs, produced and sold in 1966. The matte silver dial is indicative of the understated designs of the era, combining simple Arabic markers at the cardinal hours and subtle rose gold stick markers for the rest. The only concession to luxury are the elegant "ribbon" style lugs and alpha hands.

While the sportier Caliber 89-powered Mark XI garners more attention than its dressier twins, this watch provides a much more affordable alternative. Whether you're in the market for a simple classy piece, or you're looking for an exceptional vintage daily-wearer with a revered history, this IWC Caliber 89 is not to be missed!

Details

18k Solid rose gold case is approximately 37mm (excluding crown). IWC Reference 521. IWC Caliber 89 Manually-Wound Movement. Circa 1966.

Overall Condition: Case is in excellent condition with sharp lugs and no signs of over-polishing or noteworthy blemishes. Matte silver dial is in similarly excellent condition with no signs of refinishing. Original case back and unsigned crown.

Includes one 17mm black leather IWC strap with signed gold plaque buckle (later).

SKU: AS01646

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