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Recommendations for vintage dress watches are one of the most common inquiries we get at analog/shift HQ. While sports watches are generally understood by collectors and enthusiasts, dress pieces have been off their radar for some time. Now that smaller, more delicate timepieces are becoming popular again, choosing one that offers a good blend of looks, construction, history, and originality can be a daunting task. The good news is that there are lots of options!
The challenge lies (as with any vintage watch) in finding a good one. Years of neglect, damage, and over-restoration can make finding a suitable timepiece a burden. In our minds, there are few minimum requirements for a proper dress piece: svelte case design, clean looks,a solid movement, and originality. While many opt to go with a precious metal casing material, steel watches are a great alternative, provided the above criteria are met.
Longines is a brand that needs no introduction. Now closely associated with Omega under the Swatch Group umbrella, the brand was a staple of the Swiss watchmaking industry throughout the 20th century. They are well-known for their broad assortment of lines and designs, as well as their close association with equestrian sports. Introduced in 1957, their luxury-focused Flagship line was one of the first watches to be given a name that featured prominently in international marketing campaigns, earning the manufacture a well deserved reputation for quality and prestige.
Featuring an elegant, slim steel case, silver sunburst dial and gold highlights on the markers and hands, this particular Flagship model from the1960s checks all the boxes for a vintage dress piece. It also features a manually winding Calibre 30LS movement, an in-house unit used prominently at the time. Most importantly, it hasn't been refinished or restored in any way and shows its originality brilliantly. An unfortunate number of dress watches from this period have been "over restored" in the past 20 years or so, which makes finding a good original example a difficult but rewarding task. The best part about these timepieces is their value - a historic and truly beautiful dress piece for a fraction of the price of many steel sports watches and divers.
So there you have it, folks. If you're looking to round out your collection with a delightful vintage dress piece, look no further!
Steel case is approximately 35.5mm (excluding the crown). Calibre 30LS manual-winding movement.
Overall condition: Case is in great condition over all, showing only the faintest signs of wear. Original silver sunburst dial is in good condition overall, with light signs of aging and patination. Gold hour markers and hands show normal signs of oxidation consistent with age. Original signed crown.
Includes 16mm brown leather Aristo strap with steel hardware by Crown & Buckle.