Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle

Styles may fluctuate like the tides, but certain designs have managed to weather the changing flood of public opinion. In Omega’s arsenal, the “Holy Trinity” of Professional watches—that is, the Speedmaster, the Seamaster, and the Railmaster—are the brand’s strongest offerings. The Seamaster, in particular, has been a part of Omega’s collection, in some form or another, since the late 1940s.

While it wasn’t Omega’s first waterproof watch—that honor going, as dubious as it is, to the Marine—it was the first viable one, and the Seamaster Professional followed in its wake.

The Marine, for all its innovation, was faulty. True, it may have been the chosen watch of Yves le Prieur, the father of the Aqualung, and might have delved to an unprecedented 14 meters with William Beebe. But its watertightness, such as it was, was the result of a case that was sealed with gaskets made of lead or shellac, which could not resist the changes of temperature and depth to which it was exposed at depth.

But as diving technology improved, and scientists such as Jacques Cousteau exposed countless thousands to “the silent world” beneath the waves with his documentaries, more and more sought to don wetsuits and disappear into the deep.

Omega adapted the Seamaster of the 1940s, adapting a technology from submarines—rubber O-rings—to seal the back of the case.

Sure that this was a winning design, Omega submitted this new Seamaster to the Laboratory for Water Resistance in Geneva, where it was subjected to the same conditions it would see during a dive: punishing pressure, the same as at 60 meters, and rapid changes of temperature. It passed, and the Seamaster was rechristened the Seamaster 300 and launched in 1957. As Omega’s answer to its longtime rival Rolex’s Submariner, the Seamaster found its depth.

But it did not stagnate—as underwater breathing technology continued to improve, Omega tweaked the design of the Seamaster throughout the remainder of the 1950s and on to the 1960s, and hit on a legend.

This watch, the Reference 166.024, is like its cousin, the Reference 165.024, but with an additional date window. Like the Speedmaster Reference 145.012, the case of the Seamaster 166.024 was made by Huguenin Frères, and is notable for its distinctive asymmetrical shape. The dial is also of note, due to its unusual configuration: a large triangle at 12 o’clock which has given rise to the nickname “Big Triangle.”

Of note on this example is the caseback, as it actually has the "Speedmaster" name engraved on the back but with the correct reference number for this model - 166.024 - on the inside. Whether this was a product of a caseback shortage in the factory at the time of production or during a subsequent service, we're not really sure - but it’s a unique touch that makes this example just a bit more interesting than the rest!

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