Universal Genève Polerouter

Universal Genève Polerouter

Most of us, even the most diehard collectors, know only one watch designer by name: Gerald Genta.

The man behind the AP Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the IWC Ingenieur, Genta changed the watch industry with his luxury stainless steel sports watches.  But before he could pioneer haute horology, he had cut his teeth on a more approachable timepiece; the Universal Genève Polerouter.

The Polerouter was Genta's first watch hit, penned by the young Swiss designer at the age of 23. The watch was a sales success and propelled Genta’s career forward (allowing us to have greats like the Royal Oak and the Nautilus.) The first Polerouter was released in 1954 to celebrate and promote Scandinavian Airlines’ Royal Viking polar flights between New York City, Los Angeles and Europe. The flights forged a new route over the North Pole, reducing flight times between the two continents. Flying over the North Pole presented a unique set of challenges for a watch, and the Polerouter was designed to be highly resistant to magnetic fields (in addition to the usual shock and water resistance) so as to maintain accuracy during the trip.

Polerouters are not especially rare watches, though that is not to say that what’s available is often in very good condition. As is the case with any multi-decade-old watch, finding a clean, quality example is no easy task.

This particular example is a late execution date-model that has clearly led an easy life.  With a cream-colored matte dial, asymmetrical date window with fancy scripted numerals and simple stick markers, this piece makes for an infinitely wearable watch in a variety of settings, and whether paired with a fabric strap or its original (!) signed steel bracelet, it is incredibly comfortable on the wrist.  One of this model's best features lies internally: the in-house Universal Genève micro-rotor movement. Early Polerouters employed a bumper automatic movement, but the micro-rotor movement is what Universal Genève is really known for. The purpose of the micro-rotor is to save space and allow for thinner movements, and thus thinner watches, making it unusually comfortable for an automatic.

All in all, this is a simple, elegant watch from one of the most important names in the industry. Genta’s designs are as good as it gets, and the Polerouter is one of the most affordable ways to get into a vintage Genta piece. When you strap one to your wrist you’ll quickly see why collectors are always on the hunt for exceptional Polerouters.


Stainless steel case is approximately 35mm (excluding the crown).  Universal Genève Automatic micro-rotor movement. Circa 1970s.

Overall condition:  Steel case is in outstanding condition throughout, showing only the lightest signs of wear from occasional use. Original dial is in very good condition with light signs of aging and darkly patinated luminescent plots. Original luminous hands show patina consistent with age.  Original signed crown.  Original case back with original protective sticker intact.

Includes original steel bracelet with signed clasp and two 18mm nylon straps by Crown & Buckle.

More pieces you may enjoy

Tudor Heritage Chronograph
Ref. 70330B - Box & Hangtag
$ 2,995.00
Tudor Submariner RCN
Ref. 79090 - rare Royal Canadian Navy issue
Amundsen Oslo Polar Prototypes
#000/250 - Prototypes
$ 5,200.00
Omega Seamaster 300
Ref. 165-024 - Cal. 562
$ 6,500.00


Thank you for your interest in the Tudor Oysterdate Big Rose. Please fill out the form below and we will get back to you shortly.